The title of this post is much less misleading if you know the backround story. Five years ago, when I lived in Manchester, I bought this rayon goldfish tee from Dorothy Perkins. I’ve been wearing it loads (sadly, it has its first holes now) and wanted to recreate it because I liked the fit and fabric so much. This tee started my love affair with rayon and so I gave it to a local seamstress asking her to make a pattern from it. She did, and after the first tees I made from it showed the fit was a little off she altered it. Mind you, the construction is pretty complex for a simple raglan tee- bust darts, shoulder darts, “angular” raglan (saddle?)- but it was worth the effort (and the fabric for the two very wonky and ill fitting tees I first made from it). Since then I made three more versions (a rayon floral one, and a mystery fabric red one, and this jersey version).
The original tee is made from a very thin rayon and has an exposed metal zipper at the back. Since I didn’t need the zipper to get it over my head, and it made the tee shift due to its weight, we left it out in the pattern. I stated before that I am not a jersey fan, so this version is a step out of my comfort zone. In the last few years, I spotted more and more rayon jerseys with very nice digital prints in fabric shops, which got me thinking whether a drapey rayon jersey would work with this pattern. So I bought a very very cheap (1,50 Euro/metre) bad quality drapey jersey (can’t tell which fibre content, but it has a slight sheen) from Maybachufer market in Berlin with bad recovery and little strech to make a muslin from. Turns out this tee works excellent with rayon jersey- the fit around the shoulderblades benefits a lot from a little strech. Digital print jerseys here I come!
There is still a bit of a problem with back neckline gaping with the pattern, so I decided against simply serging and basting down the neckline and improvised a neckline binding (a technique I learned from my Bronte Top). Since the fabric had only a little stretch and bad recovery, I cut the binding a LOT (more than 10 cm) shorter than the neckline measurements and improvised. The inside look wonky but I don’t care- because from the outside it doesnt show and the neckline lies flat.
All in all, a total win for the cost of two stamps. Which is why I have enough money left over for fancier fabrics-I ordered a double gauze to turn into a tee like this.