Moss Skirt

This skirt was a labour of love

I’ve been eyeing Grainline’s Moss Skirt for a long time before I ordered the pattern- I am glad I did, although this first version took many hours indeed.This version intended as a muslin but turned out sort of wearable. The fabric used to be curtains, it’s a midweight cotton, soft to the touch because of its age and laundry history.

My body measurements were a waist 14 (I measured where the skirt was supposed to sit) and a hip 12.Weirdly though, the finished garment measurements told me I would need to make a waist 12 and hip 14. The pattern states grading between sizes would be easy. I don’t agree. This was my first skirt with pockets and they made grading between sizes seem a lot harder (especially since I didn’t know exactly where to grade without a muslin to try on)- so in the end I didn’t grade and went with a straight size 12 hoping for the best. I let the side seams out by 0.5 cm below the pockets to give my hips a bit more room but at the same time keep the waistline measurements for both pieces (skirt and  waistband) identical. Well, this didn’t work out.

I tried the skirt without waistband. The  fit around the hips was excellent, but the waistline was too big, especially at the lower back there was some serious gaping involved. Due to a very practical back centre seam I remedied that by taking out a wedge of the centre back of the skirt (3.5 cm at the waistline, tapering out to where the yoke pieces met the rest of the skirt). I changed my already cut waistband accordingly by taking out 2.5 cm of fabric (I thought better be careful and not cut away too much) and making a centre waistband seam. I attached my waistband only to see it came 2 cm too short. No clue how this happened. Luckily I could hide it behind the waistband extension, so it wasn’t visible.

See my too short waistband in all its glory!

Waistband shortness aside, the skirt seemed to fit alright, so I added a button and a buttonhole.Test-wearing at home however showed it was still too big. Not the skirt itself, but the top bit of the waistband. Grudgingly, I decided to alter the waistband again. I changed my pattern piece by taking out thre wedges of altogther around 3 cm, one at the centre back, one at the rough position of the side seams. This resulted in my new waistband having a more pronounced curve. I ignored this and cut out a new waistband, interfacing both pieces to avoid streching. I reattached it and although it is not the same width everywhere, the fit is much better. HOWEVER, now I had the problem of the front overlapping in a strange way.

See how the waistband extension doesn’t cover the bit that sits behind it?

By then I was properly frustrated. I opend that bit of the waistband and slimmed it down, so that the extension covers it. It is now at an angle but I couldn’t care less, because it is not visible.

The skirt is now wearable (although it still sits much lower than intended) and looks quite nice for a muslin. I do have to admit to myself though, I need to make some proper changes the the pattern for the next skirt. I think it would be best to take a size 8-10 waistband and grade to a size 12 at the hips. But before I do that I will make a size 10 waistband muslin and try it on prior to attaching the skirt.

The finished skirt!

Other modifications I made include lengthening the skirt by a couple of cm to make it work appropriate and using a different zipper (why do they ask you to use a 7 inch (18 cm) zipper when nearly 2 inches are cut away from the top? I used a shorter one. for my next skirt however, I WILL use a larger one and insert it 3 cm below the given fly notch- because I cannot pull the skirt over my hips. The Moss Skirt is my very first garment with a fly front and I think I will try different instructions next time, since my fly doesn’t lay as flat as I would like it to.




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