Pepin Tote by Noodlehead Patterns

I have been following Anna Graham’s pattern releases for years now, and after making several smaller items from her book, I finally went for the Pepin Tote as a big project. I liked the clean look, the functional pockets and the fact that the bag has a recessed zipper. So I ordered the paper pattern because the price was nearly the same and I fancied not having to read the instructions on the computer. Be aware though, the paper pattern does only include measurements for the pattern pieces, you don’t get them printed on paper. Since I am planning to meake several Pepin Totes as gifts, I made myself some pattern pieces and luckily they fit into the plastic sleeve the pattern came in as well.

I duly followed the instructions and reinfored the pocket openings with narrow triangles. I felt quite smug when I thought I had worked out a way of attaching the pocket in one fluid line of stitching from the top left to the top right. Turns out I failed spectacularly with my right triangle. Since I will not unpick waxed canvas this is now a design feature.

There is a lot to like about this pattern: the size of the final bag is perfect, the instructions are very clear, the measurements result in pattern pieces that fit together well and it is a fairly speedy sew. I chose a medium weight Mind the Maker waxed cotton for the shell (I got it reduced because other customers complained about fading, so we’ll see whether I will regret this) and a stripey canvas for the lining. Waxed canvas is not a cheap fabric, but 50 cm of 1,40 m fabric was enough, so in the end it wasn’t that expensive.

Here is what I changed:

• I shortened my top lining by 0.7 cm because otherwise, the lining would have been too baggy/tall for the shell
• I went for 80 cm handles and I split the interior pocket into three instead of two (personal preference)
• I chose to reinforce the handles by attaching them with an X box (and an additional piece of canvas between the shell and handle)
• I didn’t use any pins but clips when handling the waxed canvas because pins would leave holes (the illustrations in the instructions alsways show pins), and I used masking tape in order to make the front exterior pocket stay put while attaching it

Here is what I want to change for future versions:

• I consider taking off the 0.7 cm from the big lining piece instead of from the top lining, because that would leave more space between zipper and interior pocket opening
• I might also shorten the interior pocket a bit
• If using the same canvas for the lining I will not interface both interior pocket pieces since it makes the lining quite bulky at the side seams
• next time, I might go for a metal snap or some matching colour embroidery on the exterior front pocket just because I think my tote lacks a bit of visual interest because the handles and shell fabric are very similar in colour (the downsides of having to order online)

Here is what I don’t like:

• my machine struggled when stitching the leather handles and using a leather needle didn’t help at all. In the end I used a denim needle and cranked my machine by hand. This resulted in far from perfect X box topstitching
• I ran into a slight problem when attching the shell to the inner tote, because there was some puckering – it think my shell’ top edge got streched out a bit. I remedied this by taking in one side seam at the top by 0.5 cm
• handling the bulky and stiff tote under the machine when assembling all layers/attaching equally stiff handles was quite difficult
• due to the fact that I used a waxed canvas for the shell, I could not interface the two top lining strips which resulted in the top bit of the tote being quite flimsy. I might need to choose a heavier waxed canvas next time
• the tote is comparatively heavy even without anything inside

I want to support local businesses and I do belive that craftsmanship and leather goods should not be cheap but when I tried sourcing my leather handles in a local shop the cost was so prohibitive ( 4 times the price I finally paid) that I had to order online. If you are based in Germany, I can heartily recommend Gerberei Schachenmayr.

To cut a long story short, I am completely smitten with the result. It really is the perfect size and I am especially impressed with how neat the recessed zipper turned out- excellent instructions.

Please excuse me, I’m off to make bags for all my friends and family.